Sometimes multiple wire rope isolators are used in concert.Īssuming you don't want to get rid of your sound system but you want a usable dash cam setup, some form of vibration reduction scheme may be your only option. They range in size from massive, like as big (or bigger) than a washing machine, to tiny, such as the size of a finger tip. This type of isolator has been in use for many years by heavy industry, the military and in major motion picture production to eliminate vibrations on large cinema cameras. Many different types of rubberized elastomer materials are used with some being better than others.Īnother type of vibration damper that is becoming more popular for small cameras is the wire rope vibration isolator. Probably the most common type of passive mechanical vibration damping used on drones (unlike motorized gimbals) use rubber bushings sandwiched between two or more metal plates. Of course, powerful low frequency vibrations from sub-woofers are a different kettle of fish from the higher frequency vibrations encountered by drone users dealing with electric motors and rotors but it could well be worth exploring. You could at least try some DIY experimentation to see if this approach might work for you. So essentially there is no solution which is optimum save for eliminating the source of the problem, and that can (and should) be easily many action cam users who are into capturing FPV drone footage use various vibration damping schemes to ameliorate this problem. If you devise a very soft mounting to eliminate the vibration transfer the cam will move excessively from inertia when you are driving, rendering the video almost useless. If you mount the cam case more solidly to the car the vibrations will simply be made stronger where heavier components mount inside of the cam, so it will shake apart and fail earlier. A loss of hearing is a loss of your social life I can't hear kids, I can't "chat with the babes" I meet, I miss phone calls unless it's in my pocket on vibrate, and if I turn the volume up on the TV to where I can barely hear it, it is too loud for anyone else. There are several ways your hearing can be irreparably lost, some of which get worse over time anyway even when you remove all loud sounds. You can try Nigels mount approach if you can fab something up in a stiff material, and not least mount it solid too, i know in my cheap little Suzuki car the mirror are shaking at some RPM and its a 3 CYL 65 HP engine.Īnd the mirror are still secured with 2 6 mm screws to the roof / windscreen / room supporting stricture above the headliner.įrom an older geezer who is nearly deaf now, I'd advise lowering the volume to both fix the cam issues and to save your precious hearing. I am afraid the big hits from the bass are something you cant fight well with a vibration dampening material in the normal sense, i even think a gimbal like used with action cameras and phones cant deal with the abrubt hits of the bass. So weather big BASS shake your footage, or outside cameras covered in bugs or whatever environmental, then IMO the best option is to have a camera in the regular place and just turn it down, or at least not have the stereo at full tilt all the time. You will soon have the option to do outside cameras in waterproof housings, but they have the downside that they get dirty and have no wiper to take care of the worst of it. Really there is little you can do but turn it down. Well in my 3 door hatchback back in the day with big stereo i had 3 X 15 " subwoofers, and everything including my eyeballs was shaking, and to this day i am amazed it is my eyesight that is deteriorating and not my hearing. Also any movement in the metal at the top will be vertical, much better than the windscreen glass that is changing its angle. The problem with the windscreen is that the pressure waves are only on one side, so they move it. Maybe your car has mounting points for the sun-visors that you could attach a strong aluminum mounting bracket to? A mounting bracket that reaches down from the top should not vibrate much because the low frequency pressure waves will reach both sides of the bracket causing a net zero movement, it will only be affected by vibrations from the road. Generally, the closer to the edge of the glass you can mount it, the less movement there will be, and if you can mount it to the metal at the top then there will be even less movement. Fit an FIA approved roll cage to stiffen up your car so that it doesn't vibrate, and mount the camera directly to the roll cage.Filter out the frequencies that cause the glass to vibrate, you could do this in an audio editor before downloading the track to your stereo.I assume it is not your stereo that causes the issue, but a mono bass unit that is vibrating the glass?
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